Binsar -> Mukteswar (22.4.25)

Bird’s eye view:

Around 110 km travel today to Mukteswar, dropping to 7,500 ft, slightly lower than Binsar. We travelled to Almora, which we bypassed and took a slightly longer route via Lamgara, since we will be going to Almora anyway later on. We left at 7.30 am and reached at 12.30 pm, just before lunch. Apart from the initial 6 km return road inside the forest, the highways, both national and state, were excellent.

Leaving Binsar (7.30 am):

Simba Jungle Lodge had been a nice stay, except, as we said, for the exorbitant price of food. We were planning to have breakfast somewhere on the way, after we hit the highway again. The descent of 6 km to the gate of the wildlife sanctuary was as perilous as ever. While ascending, we had run the risk of getting stuck in the ruts if we slowed down. While descending, the car tended to skid on the loose soil if I braked too hard on a slope. So we made it down slowly, driving on tiptoes as it were. We saw one family looking at the track doubtfully, having failed at the first attempt. Hearing from us that the peaks were not visible due to clouds, they did high-fives and executed an about turn. I saw the lady get down at the barricade, perhaps wanting to ask the forest department for a refund.

Reaching Mukteswar (12.30 pm):

The journey was uneventful today, though the scenery was as beautiful as ever. Passing Almora, we were happy to see its pink houses growing on the mountainside like colourful mushrooms. A biggish town (pop 35,000), being a district headquarter, one that we will visit three days later.

We were going to stay with a school friend of mine, who has a cottage in a village in Mukteswar. As we slipped into a side road leading away from the highway, fruit trees and forests moved closer to our travel path, till finally, down a graded road, we found my friend standing outside their cute cottage.

Mukteswar also used to be a small village, he said, till Covid came and people wanted to have a place outside the congested cities. Some 3 km from the cottage, the approach road now sports supermarkets, smart-looking cafes, and homestays, indicating the influx that is happening to the area.

My friend’s cottage overlooks the falling hillside and the rising hills on the other side, full of orchards, forests and village communities. Being a doctor and having worked with the people here earlier, he finally decided to settle here after retirement.

After a lovely lunch of rice, daal, okra, cauliflower and trout (he is a very good cook) we talked about our lives and then turned in for a siesta.

Evening brought chilliness as the sun vanished behind the hills. We sat outside on garden chairs till the cold started to penetrate. While my friend focussed on making dinner, we sat in the kitchen and nursed evening drinks - vodka, agave (tequila) and rhododendron (separate drinks).

So when I said my friend is good cook, we did not imagine that tonight's dinner would be something at the level of shakshuka with cheese-stuffed garlic bread, ending with mishti doi. Fully home made and delicious.

Today was a completely relaxed day at Mukteswar. Expect the same pampering to continue for two more days. 

Photo credits: Panna Rashmi Ray