The Five Ovens - lit at last: I love those stories which start with “The day dawned bright and clear”, because in real life, they often do not, and never when you need them to. As we shuffled out of bed at 5.30 am, eyes squinting in the dim light, and pulled the curtain apart… we were met with the sight of the mighty Panchchuli mountain range, not obscured by clouds, looming dark against the gradually lightening sky. They were dark, because the sun would rise behind them. While we huddled on our small balcony, waiting for the sun to peep out from behind the mountains, we could see other guests also emerging onto their balconies like careful tortoises. Some, like us, were seeing the ranges for the first time during the trip, and their silly grins were punctuated only by continuous camera clicks. Some others, who had seen them from other places, were comparing the sight, perhaps with some loss of fulsome praise. Young couples were already dressed and cavorting on the small lawn below, re...